This part is about ... Anna

We have just completed six days of the most spectacular, difficult and challenging ride I/we've EVER done.

 

Had we known what we were in store for we would have followed other bikers footsteps and taken public transport through and around to our destination. This part of the blog is NOT necessarily about the sights we've seen, the food we ate or the people we've met, aside from some amazing bikers that have shared the same route as us. There were four strong Chinese men, two young Americans, Pascal, a French biker having been on the road for one and a half years on his trip around the world and Manfred, a delightful person and a great biker that had done this trip before and was able to give us some very appreciated advice. We ended up not quite biking with him, much too strong for us, but sharing some bike moments together and meeting up for two nights sharing the same guest houses. 

 

This part of the blog is about Anna! 

 

There aren't many people reading this blog that could have come close to what she has accomplished. We're here now, through her perserverance and a very strong desire to finish, even though I had suggested on number of occasions we throw in the towel and try to hitch a ride. There was only once that she gave in when in fact she didn't have a choice. On that particular day we had set off from Luang Prabang full of energy and high moral after spending three nights relaxing, taking in the sights, washing clothes and checking out the bikes. It was a bit chilly and slightly overcast but we didn't think much of it as that was kind of what it was. We got the bikes out onto the road around six but didn't actually start pedaling until after a roadside stop for coffee. The road was undulating but nothing compared to the gruelling biking we had done the days prior to our boatride down the Mekong towards Luang Prabang. After around 30k's we decided it was a good time to get some food in our bellies as it started to rain and it was very cold. We stopped at a roadside food stall that was covered and ordered a heaping bowl of typical Lao soup which went down like a treat, considering the weather conditions at the time, noodles and veggies for me and the same for Anna with a bit of meat added. To our surprise another biker rolled in and that's when we met Manfred, a very charming 52 year old man from Munich and a very experienced biker both local and long distance. We were a bit surprised when he told us what was in front of us as he had done this route before. We were under the impression, because of what other people had told us, NOT bikers, that the road remained pretty much the same for the next 50k's. Manfred warned us that what we had in front of us was some very tough steep grades for the next 15k's then 15 down immediately followed by 20 up until we arrived at our nights destination, Kiewkacham. We biked a bit with Manfred and then he went off agreeing to meet up and stay in the same guesthouse and also to have dinner together. 

 

The ride started off tough and got tougher and tougher. Unfortunately we couldn't appreciate where we were due to the fog and drizzly rain. However, exhausted, we made it to the top followed by a joyous 15km ride down! We couldn't completely relax as there were potholes in the road and at times, especially for some reason, around bends, there was loose gravel. However we went down a LOTquicker than we went up! At the end of the 15k's and feeling really cheery with our fabulous ride we decided to stop and have some food alongside a river. 

 

MISTAKE!! We both apparently forgot what Manfred had told us and neglected to take into account the steep 20kms we had in front of us. It was already getting late, coming up to four, and we were feeling a bit tired. Needless to say a half hour later we set off, overcast and cool. I realized very quickly that we had made a mistake which i didn't share with Anna. The first five k's were very steep but ok. Then I noticed Anna pushing the bike up a very steep bit which normally she would have biked. As the ride continued I myself began to feel my legs tire and I felt a slight twinge in my spirit about the road ahead. By now the sun had gone down and the light was beginning to fade and the light drizzle persisted. By this time I was content to join Anna in pushing the bikes for short spurts to give our already tired legs a rest. 

 

Under normal circumstances we'd have been ok but a combination of the weather conditions and the steep hill, began to take its toll. By now it was starting to get dark, visibility was reduced, the rain increased and for the first time doubt and worry/concern began to appear in my thoughts. I didn't want to say anything to Anna because, after all, there wasn't much we could do about it! I also thought she would say when she had had enough. I did think of something that I thought might help. I got out our mp3 and thought listening to music could take our mind off of the struggle. On Anna I put on the new, revised, Sergeant Peppers album which she later admitted really helped her along. From time to time I heard her singing as she walked or pedalled along. By now it was dark, period! Visibility not far from zero and I realized I made the major mistake, I forgot to look at my mileage counter when we started so I didn't know how far we had traveled or concequently, how far we needed to go. 

 

Night, rain, cold, fog, reduced visibility, psyche, effort, the combination begins to play on your mind and for the first time ever, as I combined slow, hard pedaling and slow hard pushing, I began to feel vulnerable and it didn't feel good. Being out on this mountain road, way out I didn't know where, I began to get so worried about Anna who was obviously coming to the end of her tether so I said to her we should look for a place to shelter for the night. She said, "NO!" I suggested trying to hitch to which she replied, "NO!" As we half walked and half biked I can honestly say that for the first time ever, fear began to creap into my bones and I was scared. I stopped and seperated our money and our credit cards into two different piles and locations, one on me and one on the bike. We passed a small village and tried to make sense of how many miles we were from our destination. It ended up a bit of a comedy as they couldn't understand anything we were saying and obviously, vice versa! 

 

So the only choice was to push on. It was so dark and we had trouble seeing the side of the road I thought I would put on my head lamp. It didn't work as the fog just reflected the light which was more blinding than helpful. With the combination of fear and a sense of responsibility for Anna's wellbeing, I decided whatever Anna thought, I would start trying to hitch a ride. The fact was that there wasn't many suitable vehicles passing that time of night capable of taking our bikes. There was mainly motorbikes, the main means of locomotion here in SE Asia. You see whole families on them. Often man, woman and two small kids, no room for two bikes. It was by then around 7:15. On the third attempt a van stopped and we all realized that there was no way it could work as they had no room for the two  bikes and bags. Very sadly for me, with a shug of their shoulders, and ours, they drove off. I cannot tell you what I felt! 

 

I'll let you imagine and you'll probably be closer to any words I can come up with! Anna never complained. She never expressed any fear. She said on a number of occassions that she looked forward to finishing the ride. She talked about being cuddled up in a nice cosy bed that night and always, when I asked her if she was ok she replied, "tired but i'll make it." Yet again for the millionth time since I met her she touches something inside me that I can only imagine what people refer to as love. I then said to Anna that we really need to think about finding a place to shelter for the night, she didn't object. Just then a vehicle approached and I tried my best to flag it down. It stopped and I realized we were home safe because it was a small flatbed truck with people huddled together protecting themselves from the cold. By this time the rain had stopped along with my fear. I knew we'd made it as we were loading up the bikes and the people on the truck were moving around to make space for us and, the bikes. I rode all the way in the back of the truck freezing but feeling great knowing a room and food was not far off. 

 

We'd arrived at a very basic guesthouse and learned we had ridden 8k's. By truck it was rather quick! What made it even better was that there was Manfred, helping us off with the bikes. Once settled, the three of us sat down to some beers followed by food. We then told Manfred the above story. Note that we have since run into other people that biked that same route with a lot of effort but with no incidences. However, this is my story and I'm sticking with it!

Four days later we've arrived in Vang Vieng and are enjoying the comforts and sights of a tourist town north of mid Laos!

Please give a thought to, HALO through,

 

JUST GIVING..........

GANA xox

 

***** en français *****

 

***** les photos *****